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Features >> August 22

Mission to the Misty North-East - IV
By Lipika Bansal

Now it was time for some chit-chat and he asked us some questions, as expected. I told him what we had planned. He asked me to write my name on a piece of paper. I thought he might check with the University of Delhi, whether there is really a Lipika Bansal studying sociology…anyway it turned out to be credible. Finishing the talk we continued on with our more important discussions on drugs. Apparently it was difficult for them to seize huge amounts of drug. The maximum they have caught was 2.5 kilograms. This is because they pack everything in small gram packages, that way the packages are only intercepted some grams at a time. During our interview we got interrupted by someone else, so we felt we had enough information and we left with a satisfied smile on our face. Slipping back into our slippers and after taking our bags we went to the women's market, where we had a good laugh with the vegetable and fruit vendors. As we were not able to communicate with them we just copied what they were saying. 

Later we found out that IGP stands for Inspector General of Police, the highest in the whole Police Department. 

One of our contact who is a social worker in Churachandpur works on women's issues. She teaches about hygienic ways of living in the hilly areas, where people live in utmost poverty (I didn’t see myself). Her brother works with Star News, and told us about a story he covered. In Imphal you can see many rickshaw drivers (3-wheel-cycle -puller) completely covering their faces, because it seems that they are all highly educated people, with good university degrees, master degrees etc. but have no other ways of making a living, so they are forced to pull rickshaws. Because they are ashamed to do this work, they cover their faces. The social worker took us to Churandchanpur, the second city of Manipur. Here we went again to de-addiction centers, but we went to one very peculiar one. I was shocked and terrified at the sight of this center. There were about 150 drug addicts living in this center and all of them were shackled (chained with their feet), mostly boys and 4 girls between the age of 15 and 55 years old or so. I thought that the man who was managing the center was a real madman…he said that police brings in these drug addicts, because they are violent towards their parents. Besides, the parents buy locks for them, to keep them like that. 

They are taught arts and crafts with wood and the furniture thus made is sold. They also make noodles which are also sold. I asked if their parents come to visit their children sometimes and the man replied in the positive but opined that he did not usually want them to come. Many people and organizations object to his way of treating drug addicts and thereby, he has isolated himself from the outside world. He hardly lets anybody go inside. He has made is own cemetery, because he wants to die there. Many people have contacted him, and offered him money in exchange of getting rid of the shackles. But he refuses to take off those shackles. Rehabilitation means, making people ready to go back to society. Here he is doing absolutely the opposite. He is isolating them from the outside world. Some of them stay there for at least 5 years. And when they go back to their communities, they can’t cope with their environment, and they return to the dangerous sect-leader and his wife. I don’t know what he tells them, but maybe he is brainwashing all the people there. He has his little kingdom there, where he can do whatever he wants. 

We met with another ethnic group from Burma, the Zomi; they came as refugees to Manipur. The Zomi man we talked to told about another recent occurrence, one sister went to visit her ill sister in another village. On her way she had to pass the Burmese army post. She was captured for one week and raped. It is difficult for the Zomi people to concentrate on their work as they face problems with the Manipuri (they call themselves Meiteis). The Meiteis are fighting the Zomi, as they feel that they have occupied their land. So the Zomis are twice refugees. First from Burma, and secondly as internally displaced people. The Thai-Burma border is the opposite from the Indo-Burma border. India is much poorer in comparison to Thailand, so when refugees arrive in India it is difficult for them to organize themselves, as communication connections are very bad. There are no telephone lines; distances are too long, which makes transportation very expensive. Computers-forget it. You must be happy if you have light sometimes. 

Dr. Thura had advised us to travel by air to Aizawl, the capital of Mizoram as the roads are a complete disaster in the rainy seasons. He said that we might be stranded in the middle of nowhere and it might take us 3 days to reach Aizawl, and we didn’t have the time to have a 3 day road experience, but maybe next time. Our flight would be on Friday at 12 noon. Our next place to visit and the most exiting place yet are the Moreh-Tamu border towns in India and Burma respectively. Foreigners are absolutely prohibited to go to those areas. There are many checkpoints as this is a major drug trafficking route. But I must say if you want to smuggle something, it is quite easy, because they don’t check very thoroughly. We left early in the morning, as we only had an hour and half to spend in Moreh, because they close the gate at 1.00 p.m. You have to leave Moreh before that, or you have to stay there. But we couldn’t stay because we had to catch our flight the next morning. 

Anyway when we arrived in Moreh, we saw this most pathetic town-it seemed like the end of the world. Especially now in the rainy seasons, the roads- well you can hardly say, they are roads, they are holes with bits of road, and well the same story when I first stepped out in Guwahati –‘kicher’ everywhere. We had our breakfast at a small vendor, when it started pouring like crazy. Many women cross the border secretly to sell vegetables, and return at the end of the day as the Indian rupee is worth more than the Burmese kyat. We had only 30 minutes more to spend in Moreh, and then we would have to go back; we hadn’t done anything yet. We were supposed to meet with the Kuki people. So there we went in the rain, while bathing my feet and giving my slippers an extra cleaning treatment in those delicious lukewarm brownish deep puddles of rain and drainage water. We stayed with the ABSDF with Dr. Thura, which means the All Burma Students’ Democratic Front. We had 15 min. left, but I was considering staying the night, because we could try to cross the border, although we were advised not to go. But first we had to see whether we would be able to make it in time for our flight the next day. We asked our van-driver, whether it was ok, if we didn’t go today, but tomorrow instead. He was extremely kind and said yes, he was most happy to stay in Moreh, because that is his hometown. And we would have to be ready the next day at 6.30 am or so. OK, we can do that, no problem…I was extremely happy that I was able to convince Jang to stay!! 

to be continued......

(The author attends the University of Amsterdam in Holland majoring in International Communications)

 

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